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Ingredient Glossary

Ingredient Glossary

https://www.elcompanies.com/en/our-commitments/viewpoints/preservatives

At The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC), the health and safety of our consumers is a top priority. We select our ingredients for many reasons, including safety, efficacy, and sustainability. We work diligently to ensure that our products are formulated to meet the requirements of governmental, regulatory, and scientific bodies wherever our products are sold, as well as our own high-quality standards. We achieve these high-quality and safety standards through rigorous selection and evaluation of the ingredients that we use in our formulations and through careful consideration of what we don’t use, even if permitted by regulatory authorities. We are confident in the safety and efficacy of our products and the ingredients we use, and are committed to sharing information about our ingredients and why we use them.

Our ingredient palette is comprised of thousands of materials, and we fully support providing more information to our consumers about the ingredients in our products and are developing new ways to share ingredient information. As part of this commitment, please read below for information on ingredients we choose to use in some of our products which are of interest to consumers. We continue to strive for ingredient transparency and will update this page with more ingredient information in the future. In the meantime for more information on other ingredients used across our portfolio, we encourage you to visit our brand pages.

BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene)

What is it?

  • BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) is a synthetic antioxidant.
  • BHT is not the same as nor similar to BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole), a different ingredient that has received some negative attention.

Why do we use it?

  • We use BHT for two main purposes in our formulas. BHT helps to protect ingredients such as oils and natural extracts from oxidation that may be caused by reaction with oxygen in the air. This helps to ensure an optimal product experience and aesthetics. BHT can also be used to provide antioxidant benefits to skin. When used as an antioxidant BHT can neutralize free radicals.

Is it safe?

  • BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) is safe for use in cosmetic products. For example, the most recent EU assessment considers BHT to be safe up to 0.8% in leave on and rinse off products.
  • We use BHT at no more than 0.1% in leave on products, and 0.5% in rinse off products in accordance with global regulatory standards. We are confident in the safety of this ingredient as used in our formulas.

Can we use an alternative?

  • Available alternatives to BHT are not as effective or as compatible with many ingredients and formulas.
  • We are confident in the safety and efficacy of BHT.

References

Dimethicone

What is it?

  • Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane) is a name for a group of synthetic silicone-based polymers. They are used for their moisturizing and skin protectant properties. Dimethicone comes in a wide variety of textures from highly fluid to gum-like.

Why do we use it?

  • Dimethicone is often used as an emollient to provide unique benefits and textures for skin and hair such as:
    • Silky look and feel
    • Detangle and conditioning
    • Texture enhancing for luxurious feel
    • Film forming ability
    • Thermal protection
  • Dimethicone is also used to prevent soaping in face and body creams, a phenomenon that occurs when creams or lotions are difficult to rub in resulting in white streaking on the skins surface.

Is it safe?

  • Dimethicone has a long history of safe use as a cosmetic ingredient. It is recognized as an active ingredient in OTC skin protectant products. Due to the inert nature, it is even used in baby products and eczema products, such as rash cream.

Can we use an alternative?

  • Due to their unique properties and benefits, they are not easily replaceable.
  • We continue to consult the latest scientific and regulatory updates globally.

References

EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid)

(Also found on labels as: Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium EDTA-Copper, and Tetrasodium EDTA)

What is it?

  • EDTA helps stabilize formulas. It is a synthetic chelator, meaning it attracts and binds with minerals in water, preventing the minerals from reacting with other ingredients in the formula. Here is what you may find on your label: Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium EDTA-Copper, and Tetrasodium EDTA.
  • As a result of its binding activity, the EU Chemical Agency has investigated EDTA’s potential environmental impacts on soil, found very low levels of EDTA in the environment, and has concluded that concern is not warranted.

Why do we use it?

  • We use EDTA at low levels to maintain product integrity, keeping the product stable and pleasant for consumers to use. EDTA does this by gathering minerals that are present in water and binds them, to prevent them from interacting with other ingredients that could affect the stability and appearance of cosmetic formulas. EDTA is also used to improve the performance of rinse off products in hard water.

Is it safe?

  • EDTA has a long history of safe use in cosmetics.

Can we use an alternative?

  • Available alternatives are not as effective or as compatible with many ingredients and formulas.

References

Methylchloroisothiazolinone / Methylisothiazolinone

What is it?

  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/ Methylisothioazolinone (MI/MIT) mix (also known under the trade name Kathon) is a very effective synthetic preservative. It can be used to preserve a cosmetic formula or a raw material.

Read more about preservatives here.

Why do we use it?

  • MCI / MI / MIT is a highly effective preservative when used at a very low concentration.

Is it safe?

  • In some countries, its use is restricted because it has the potential to cause allergic reactions. However, it is permitted and considered safe at very low levels in rinse off products.

References

Mineral oil

What is it? 

  • Mineral Oil is a synthetic emollient. It is a highly purified ingredient used in many cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturizing properties and ability to help reduce water loss in skin.

Why do we use it?

  • Mineral Oil lends an excellent cushion & emolliency to certain types of formulas that cannot be duplicated by other materials.

Is it safe?

  • Mineral Oil has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and personal care products. We only use the highest grade recognized by standard setting institutions. This grade of material is also found in pharmaceutical preparations.

Can we use an alternative? 

  • Mineral Oil lends a unique cushion & emolliency to certain formulas without a characteristic odor of some natural alternatives. We use some natural alternatives when they match the characteristic of synthetic emollients and we continue to look for new ones.

References 

Paraffin

What is it? 

  • Paraffin is a synthetic emollient. It is a highly purified ingredient used in many cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturizing properties.
  • Paraffin may also be used as a candle wax since it is known for its ability to hold high concentrations of fragrance and colors. Paraffin melts easily and therefore is very effective at filling rooms with fragrance.

Why do we use it?

  • In cosmetics: Paraffin is unique in its ability to stabilize certain emulsions and wax-based anhydrous (no water) formulas. Additionally it is a skin conditioning agent and helps reduce water loss in skin.
  • In candles: In our experience, paraffin gives the best “throw” of available candle waxes, effectively filling the room with fragrance.

Is it safe?

  • Paraffin has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and personal care products. We only use the highest grade recognized by standard setting institutions. This grade of material is also found in pharmaceutical preparations.
  • When used as a wax in a well-constructed fragranced candle paraffin produces a safe, clean, and even burning flame. Additionally, all paraffin candles marketed by The Estée Lauder Companies brands are tested as part of a comprehensive test plan and meet all applicable candle regulations, safety and industry standards for markets in which they are sold.

Can we use an alternative?

  • We use some natural alternatives when they match the characteristic of synthetic emollients and we continue to look for new ones.
  • Paraffin has a number of performance benefits compared to alternatives, including:
    • It melts efficiently and evenly for a good candle experience
    • It stays consistent when other waxes can expand and collapse during shipment in different climates

References

Petrolatum

What is it? 

  • Petrolatum is a synthetic emollient. It is a highly purified ingredient used in many cosmetics and personal care products due to its moisturizing properties and ability to help reduce water loss in skin.

Why do we use it?

  • Petrolatum lends an excellent cushion & emolliency to certain types of formulas that cannot be duplicated by other materials.

Is it safe?

  • Petrolatum has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and personal care products. We only use the highest grade recognized by standard setting institutions. This grade of material is also found in pharmaceutical preparations.

Can we use an alternative? 

  • Petrolatum lends a unique cushion & emolliency to certain formulas without a characteristic odor of some natural alternatives. We use some natural alternatives when they match the characteristic of synthetic emollients and we continue to look for new ones.

References 

Phenoxyethanol

What is it?

  • Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative.

Why do we use it?

  • Phenoxyethanol is a broad spectrum preservative that is efficacious at low levels against a wide variety of microorganisms. It is compatible with most formula types.

Is it safe?

  • Phenoxyethanol has a long history as a safe and effective preservative in cosmetics. We formulate with phenoxyethanol levels up to 1% in accordance with global regulatory standards. We use the lowest effective level of phenoxyethanol that allows us to maintain the integrity of the product, which is often below 1% in our formulas. We are confident in the safety of phenoxyethanol and support its use on a global basis.

Can we use an alternative?

  • Although there are a limited number of available alternative preservatives for use in cosmetics, these are not as effective or as compatible with many ingredients and formulas. Furthermore, phenoxyethanol is effective at a low level, has a long history of safety and is appropriate for mild formulations.

References

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs)

What is this?

  • Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are synthetic compounds used as humectants (which help retain or preserve moisture), emulsifiers, thickeners, solvents, and softeners in many cosmetic products. Polyethylene glycols allows us to mix ingredients that are normally hard to combine in formula such as water and oils. There are many PEG based materials that are used to allow us to achieve a large variety of textures. Polyethylene glycols are typically identified on an ingredient label by the designation PEG or ingredients ending in “-eth”, for example ceteareth.

Is it safe? 

  • The PEGs used in cosmetics are safe. While the manufacturing process of PEGs can create a byproduct, 1,4 dioxane, our processes and our ingredient specifications ensure the PEGs we use contain very low levels (within regulatory limits) of this byproduct.

Why do we use it and how?

  • PEGs are used to create unique textures and feels. They contribute to product stability, consistency and aesthetic experience. PEGs are used to combine ingredients that don’t otherwise blend or stay together, allowing formulas to remain intact that would otherwise separate.

Can we use an alternative?

  • In some cases, there are naturally derived ingredients that can be used as alternatives. However, these alternatives are not always as effective at emulsifying and when used at higher levels may impact texture and feel.

References 

Polymers

What are they?

  • Polymers are everywhere. There are millions of different types of polymers ranging from DNA to polyethylene plastic bags. A polymer is a substance that has a molecular structure consisting chiefly or entirely of a large number of similar units bonded together. For example, wood contains cellulose, a polymer made up of repetitive sugar units.
  • It is impossible to determine from the name of a polymer whether it is natural, synthetic, liquid, solid, soft, hard etc.

Why do we use them?

  • Polymers can be used to make your skin or hair feel smoother, softer, and/or look more luminous.
  • Polymers in liquid/waxy form are used to provide structure, feel, and smoothness to a formula. Solid polymers have many uses including in powder make-up, as a coating on mineral pigments, or to encapsulate active ingredients (e.g., perfumes, UV filters, etc.).

Are they safe?

  • Polymers are safe and have a long history of safe use in cosmetics. Due to their size, they tend to interact with only the surface of your skin or hair.
  • Some polymers can be persistent in the environment. However, persistence does not always equal harm to the environment.
  • We assess ingredients, including polymers, for their potential environmental impact at the concentration used and strive to make the best selections.

Can we use an alternative?

  • Polymers are safe and have a long history of safe use in cosmetics and are very effective in delivering benefits.

References

  • Due to the size and variety of ingredients in this class, references will be provided with specific ingredients.

Preservatives

What are they?

  • Preservatives are a class of ingredients used to help prevent the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms in the product.

Why do we use them?

  • We use preservatives to protect product integrity over time and during use by the consumer. Everyday activities, like putting your fingers into a jar, can introduce bacteria or microorganisms into the product. Preservatives contribute to the safety of the product by helping to prevent the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms which can cause irritation or infections.

Read more about preservatives here.

Are they safe?

  • We use preservatives in a safe and responsible manner. The preservatives we use have a long history of safe use in cosmetics; and like all of our ingredients they undergo extensive safety evaluation. We only use preservatives when and at the levels they are needed to effectively preserve the product.

Can we use an alternative?

  • We believe products that are effectively preserved are more appropriate and practical for consumer use. For example, a product that is not preserved might have to be stored in your refrigerator like fresh food or would only last for a few weeks. Some products, such as fragrances which contain a high level of alcohol, by their nature do not require preservatives since they don’t support the growth of microorganisms.

References

Salicylic acid

What is it?

  • Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, which has multifunctional properties. It is an exfoliant that can be either naturally derived or synthetically created. Naturally derived Salicylic acid is extracted from Salix (willow) tree bark. It can be an over-the-counter (OTC) active used for acne/blemishes. It is an approved preservative in the EU.

Why do we use it?

  • It is an exfoliant ingredient which helps skin to shed dead cells from the top layer and improve the overall appearance of skin. Salicylic acid is used in some OTC products for acne/blemishes.

Is it safe?

  • It is a safe and well-studied ingredient that has been used in skin care for over 100 years.
  • The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considers salicylic acid safe for cosmetic use.

Can we use an alternative?

  • There are other exfoliants available, however we choose to use salicylic acid in some formulas based on the benefit needed. We are confident in our choice because of its excellent safety and efficacy.

References

Silicones

What are they?

  • Silicones are synthetic ingredients that are created in part from the element silicon. Silicon is sourced from the compound silicon dioxide which is found in sand, quartz, and other rocks.
  • Silicones used in cosmetics are typically colorless, odorless and have a variety of textures and unique properties. The most commonly used silicones in personal care products are dimethicone, dimethiconol, and phenyl trimethicone, but they are just a subset of a very large and diverse class of materials.

Why do we use them?

  • Silicones have a wide variety of uses, everything from soaping prevention (a phenomenon that occurs when creams or lotions are difficult to rub in resulting in white streaking on the skin’s surface) to creating unique aesthetics. Silicones provide benefits such as:
    • Smoothing & blurring (or soft focus)
    • Spreadablility
    • Silky look and feel of hair and skin (picks hair or skin relevant to your brand)
    • Shine (or radiance, dewy look)
    • Transfer resistance (long-wear)
    • Prevents physical sunscreens from leaving a white cast on your skin

Are they safe?

  • Silicones have a long history of safe use in beauty and personal care products.
  • All of the silicones we use have been rigorously evaluated and are safe to use in cosmetic and personal care products.

Can we use an alternative?

  • Due to their unique properties and benefits, they are not easily replaceable.
  • We continue to consult the latest scientific and regulatory updates globally.

References

  • This is such a broad category of ingredients, please see individual silicone ingredients for references.

Sulfate cleansers (SLS, SLES, ALS, SCS)

What are they?

  • Consumers ask about sulfates, but they are often referring to sulfate cleansers, such as SLS, SLES, ALS, SCS. Sulfate cleansers are a class of ingredients used to remove excess dirt and oil from skin and hair. They can be used in other cleansing products, even toothpaste.

Why do we use them?

  • We use sulfate cleansers in shampoos, body washes and facial cleansers due to how well they cleanse and generate rich voluminous foam, which consumers enjoy.

Are they safe?

  • Yes, because sulfates are excellent cleansers though consumers are concerned that they might be drying or irritating. When we formulate with sulfates, we are diligent to ensure that the finished product is mild to skin and scalp. We achieve this by combining other ingredients with sulfate cleansers to create a safe, mild product.
  • We only formulate with sulfate cleansers in rinse off products, which also minimizes the potential for irritation.

Can we use an alternative?

  • There are other cleansers available, however they don’t provide the same lather or clean feel. Some consumers prefer the feel and experience of sulfate cleansers; therefore, we provide both options.

References

  • FDA: CFR (Food Additive)
  • Bondi, Cara AM et al. “Human and Environmental Toxicity of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): Evidence for Safe Use in Household Cleaning Products.” Environmental Health Insights, vol. 9 27-32. 17 Nov. 2015, doi:10.4137/EHI.S3176

Learn more about our approach to ingredient and product testing and safety.

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